Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
